Few watches in history have achieved the iconic status of the Cartier Tank. Its sleek, rectangular design and quiet elegance have long been a favorite of tastemakers, artists, and royalty. But in the 1970s, Cartier introduced a twist on its classic: the Must de Cartier Tank—a more accessible version of the original that has since grown into a cult favorite. Let’s dive into how this watch came to be, why it became so beloved, and the famous wrists it has graced along the way.
Origins: A Revolutionary Design with Wartime Roots
The original Cartier Tank was created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, inspired by the silhouette of Renault tanks used during World War I. Its clean, geometric lines and minimalist Roman numerals made it stand out in a world dominated by round pocket watches. It was instantly revolutionary—not just in form, but in spirit.
General John Pershing of the U.S. Army is said to have been one of the first recipients of the original Tank watch, gifted by Louis Cartier himself. That set the tone: the Tank was for leaders, creators, and those ahead of the curve.
The Birth of the Must de Cartier Tank
Fast forward to the 1970s. The luxury market was shifting, and Cartier needed a way to reach a younger, style-conscious audience without compromising its reputation for elegance. Enter Les Must de Cartier, a new line aimed at making Cartier more accessible.
In 1977, the Must de Cartier Tank was born. While it retained the unmistakable Tank shape, it featured a vermeil (gold-plated silver) case and a quartz movement—affordable alternatives to the precious metals and mechanical innards of its older sibling. The watch came in a range of vibrant lacquered dials—burgundy, navy, black, and even deep green—an unexpected, fashion-forward move from the maison.
Why It Took Off: Minimalist Luxury for the Masses
The Must de Cartier Tank was stylish, affordable (by luxury standards), and steeped in history. It offered the essence of Cartier’s design language without the prohibitive cost. During a time when fashion was becoming more democratic, the Must Tank hit a sweet spot.
Its elegant profile meant it could transition from day to night, and the rainbow of dial options allowed wearers to express personality—something rare in watches of the time.
On the Wrists of Legends
The Must Tank may have been designed to be more accessible, but it still found its way into elite company:
• Andy Warhol, the godfather of pop art, famously wore a Cartier Tank. In fact, he was quoted saying, “I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time. In fact, I never wind it. I wear a Tank because it’s the watch to wear.” His Must Tank was part of his signature look.
• Princess Diana was often seen wearing a gold Must de Cartier Tank during the early 1990s. The understated elegance of the watch complemented her evolving, refined style post-royalty. In many candid photos, it’s quietly present on her wrist, symbolizing a certain defiant grace.
• Alain Delon, the French film star, wore a Tank in the 1981 film For a Cop’s Hide. His effortless charm and rugged sophistication brought the watch’s quiet masculinity to the forefront.
A Modern Comeback
In recent years, the Must de Cartier Tank has seen a massive resurgence. Vintage models are now hot commodities in the watch-collecting world, often fetching prices above their original cost. Cartier responded by re-releasing updated Must Tanks with solar-powered movements and the same sleek lacquered dials that made the originals so striking.
Today, the Must Tank is worn by fashion influencers, creatives, and those who appreciate design heritage. It’s the perfect watch for someone who wants timelessness with a twist—a piece of horological history with a splash of rebellion.
Final Thoughts
The Must de Cartier Tank is more than just a watch. It’s a statement of style, a nod to heritage, and a reminder that elegance doesn’t always have to come at a high price. From Warhol’s art parties to Diana’s royal appearances, it’s been the silent companion of icons. And thanks to its recent revival, it’s not going anywhere anytime soon.
Whether you’re a vintage enthusiast or a modern minimalist, the Must Tank proves that true design—when done right—never goes out of style.
image reference: Mann About Time