In the grand tapestry of luxury watchmaking, few designs have achieved the mythical status of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. With its bold, angular case and exposed screws, Gérald Genta’s 1972 masterpiece revolutionized the concept of the luxury sports watch. But tucked quietly into the margins of this storied legacy is a curious and often overlooked chapter—the Bulova Royal Oak.
Yes, that Bulova. And that Royal Oak.
A Watchmaker Known for Innovation
Before we dive into the controversy—or curiosity—of Bulova’s Royal Oak, it’s worth remembering that Bulova has long been an innovator in the watch world. From their Accutron electronic watches in the 1960s to their deep roots in American horological history, Bulova isn’t just a fashion brand; it’s a watchmaker with real chops.
So what happens when a company like Bulova decides to flirt with the design language of one of the most iconic luxury watches of all time?
You get a watch that’s equal parts homage, anomaly, and artifact of its era.
The Bulova Royal Oak: Real or Ripoff?
In the late 1970s and early 1980s, the quartz crisis had thoroughly shaken the Swiss watch industry. Japanese quartz technology dominated the market, and mechanical watchmakers were desperately pivoting to survive. Amid this upheaval, the aesthetic of the Royal Oak had become wildly influential. And like any iconic design, it began to inspire—some might say infect—the wider watch world.
Enter the Bulova Royal Oak, a quartz-powered, integrated-bracelet sports watch that bore an unmistakable resemblance to Genta’s design. The same angular case. The same exposed screws on the bezel. A similar integrated bracelet. And yes, Bulova actually put the words “Royal Oak” right on the dial.
How did they get away with it?
Some rumors suggest that Bulova secured some form of licensing agreement with Audemars Piguet, or perhaps with Genta himself. Others believe it was a bold marketing move made in an era when intellectual property wasn’t as fiercely defended across borders and industries. To this day, no definitive documentation has surfaced proving or disproving any formal agreement.
What we do know is this: the Bulova Royal Oak existed, and it was sold—largely in the U.S.—at a fraction of the price of its Swiss counterpart.
Design and Features
The Bulova Royal Oak was typically quartz-driven, though a few automatic versions have surfaced. It came in various case sizes, mostly modest by today’s standards (36mm to 38mm), with stainless steel or two-tone cases. The finishing was sharp for its price point, with brushed surfaces and polished accents that mimicked the high-end feel of the AP Royal Oak.
Some versions featured tapisserie-style dials, further cementing the visual homage, while others took a slightly more conservative approach. The bracelet—one of the standout features of the AP Royal Oak—was also closely mirrored, though lighter and with more commercial finishing.
Cult Status and Collector Interest
For decades, the Bulova Royal Oak was little more than a quirky footnote. A watch you’d find at a flea market, maybe tucked in your uncle’s drawer, or listed as “AP style” on eBay. But as vintage watch collecting has matured—and as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has become increasingly unattainable—the Bulova variant has garnered a sort of cult status.
Collectors today appreciate it not just as a knockoff, but as a genuine artifact of horological history. A reflection of a turbulent era. A watch that dared to channel high design for the masses.
Prices have climbed steadily, especially for well-preserved examples with original bracelets and signed dials. And in the current wave of vintage quartz appreciation, the Bulova Royal Oak stands out as a conversation starter and a curiosity with real wrist presence.
Final Thoughts
The Bulova Royal Oak is not a masterpiece. It’s not haute horlogerie. But it is fascinating. It’s a reminder that great design inevitably echoes far beyond its original creation. It’s proof that watch history is rarely clean-cut, and that some of the most interesting stories come from the gray areas—the riffs, the homages, the what-were-they-thinking moments.
So the next time you spot a Bulova Royal Oak in the wild, don’t scoff. Take a moment. Appreciate the design. Marvel at the audacity. And tip your hat to a watch that dared to stand in the shadow of a legend—and somehow carved out a little legacy of its own.